Spotless Bath-Shower Stalls - An Easy Way to Keep Them That Way Without hereafter Cleaning

The problem.

Cleaning a bathtub or shower stall is unpleasant work that must be done too often. Because such stalls are fairly compact, painful bumps and bruises can happen during this work. Then, after all the cleaning and wiping is done, the grout, plastic, glass, and metal-parts of the stall can still come to be constantly spotted, soiled or corroded. Replacing these stalls is costly and unnecessary. Here is how to forestall all of that.

Rack Frames 19

Avoid the problem.

This health can be avoided thoroughly by installing a conveyable wrap-around plastic-curtain liner within the stall to keep its walls and accessories sparkling clean all the time with itsybitsy or no added cleaning, even under heavy use by it occupants. It is time to say goodbye to a gritty, grimy, scummy, corroded stall, forever.

In general, first assemble and install a rectangular plastic frame within the stall at the shower-head height, and then hang shower curtains from it all the way around the inside of the stall. This frame stays in place by the pressure exerted from the flexible crutch tips used in production it, similar to the way an adjustable bathtub curtain rod stays in place, by tension. That is, the frame fits into the stall tightly. Once installed, the disposable and  washable curtain-liner takes all of the soiling abuse while the walls, doors, and faucets stay spotlessly clean. 

How to make the curtain-liner frame.

See the lists below for the parts list and directions for production the frame. Then setup it within the stall at a height just under the shower-head, and just behind the top frame of the stall's entry curtain or door, if one exists. That positioning will put the frame about 1-inch from the walls and 73-inches above the stall-floor.

At this point, hang 2-3 overlapping shower curtains from plastic hooks nearby the frame, letting the curtains overlap away from the shower head. Allow a part of the curtain-liner behind the entrance to slide open and shut for easy entry and exit. If no door exists, set the sliding portion over wherever the common entrance is.

The introductory cost to make this laborsaving gadget from scratch is about . However, it can be made for less than that with economical shopping and leftover parts from other projects.

Materials needed for a 29x48" stall.

two 10-foot rods of ¾-inch white Pvc plastic pipe; .50 each four ¾-inch white plastic-pipe T's; .50 each four ¾-inch light-colored rubber crutch tips; .50 each 36 shower-curtain hooks (plastic); box/12 three 72-inch tall household shower curtains; -10 each

Note: for the large rectangular stalls, two real twist-adjustable bathtub curtain rods with their plastic caps removed can be used in place of the two longer precut plastic-pipe rods, which saves on measuring and cutting these pipe-rods precisely. However, four one-inch washers might be needed to let the bare ends of these curtain rods fit into the T's correctly.

Still, an even faster shortcut is simply to setup a real bathtub curtain rod on each of the longer two sides of the stall. And then, run a piece of nylon rope or aluminum wire across the far ends of these two rods to unblemished the frame. For this rapid setup, nothing needs to be measured precisely.

Standard-sized shower stalls range from about 29-inches square to 48x30-inches rectangular or larger. Bathtub-shower combinations range from 60x29-inches to larger. Thus, before cutting the frame's two end-rods for the narrow sides of the stall with a fine-cut saw, part each distance separately, allowing space for the transversely attached T's on each end of each rod. See the directions below.

1. For thorough stall widths, cut two plastic-pipe end-rods to 25±1/4-inches in length, each, as measured. Scrape the rough ends smooth.

2. Insert the ends of these two rods into the side ports of the four plastic T's (no cement needed).

3. Insert a crutch tip into one end of each T on each rod, letting the tips face the same direction. The two end-rods  with the T-assemblies attached are now completed for the stall.

4. Carefully part the approximate distance of each of the two longer pipe rods separately for each side of the stall, allowing for the combined distance of the T's and crutch tips. The stalls are not all the time perfectly plumb and square. Thus, cut these rods slightly longer than the calculated estimation by about 1/4-inch each. Then, by trial-and-error fitting attempts, gradually cut these two rods to their strict lengths so the frame will hang by itself under the right number of  tension on each side. 

5. setup the curtain hooks onto the rod frame nearby all four walls.

6. Hang the curtains by overlapping them away from the shower spray or any potential splattering. Overlap them by 10 to 16-inches depending on the size of the stall and the width of the curtains. Allow the overlap on the sliding part at the entrance to be about 10-inches when closed. Tip: hang an extra unused hook at that 10-inch distance for the open-hole at the corner of that sliding curtain to be attached to.

The liner now covers the entire inner perimeter of the stall from the floor up to the top of the curtains. The bottoms of the curtains will barely touch the floor. If not, raise or lower the frame slightly by sliding it into a new position at each corner. The crutch tips will safe the walls from being scratched at each end of the stall.

To adjust the water flow while bathing or showering, manually adjust the faucets and other controls by letting the curtain wrap nearby them like thin hot-pads in one's hands. That is, to keep these parts clean and protected, holes for them need not be cut in the curtains.

Steam and mist from the hot water does not adversely affect the cleanliness of the stall walls and other accessories behind the curtains. It evaporates cleanly as it does from a bathroom mirror. Also, to forestall unnecessary buildup on the curtain-liner itself, use soft soaps, and minimize the force of the shower spray and its subsequent splattering. Additionally, the floor of the stall is self-cleaning most of the time from the swashing of the user's feet.

Summarized advantages of the frame and curtain-liner.

The stall's walls and metal/glass accessories stay clean and spotless all the time After a bath or shower, a squeegee or wipe-down rag is no longer needed The perimeter-shaped stall liner gives enough room to bathe or shower comfortably The liner curtains themselves are machine washable, or can easily be substituted as desired Coloful or designer curtains can be used if desired A shower rack can be hung from the shower-head pipe to hold soaps, shampoos, brushes etc The liner frame is removable, i.e., it is not constantly fixed to the walls with glue or screws The appearance of the frame and liner is neat and practical

Spotless Bath-Shower Stalls - An Easy Way to Keep Them That Way Without hereafter Cleaning

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