Spotless Bath-Shower Stalls - An Easy Way to Keep Them That Way Without hereafter Cleaning

The problem.

Cleaning a bathtub or shower stall is unpleasant work that must be done too often. Because such stalls are fairly compact, painful bumps and bruises can happen during this work. Then, after all the cleaning and wiping is done, the grout, plastic, glass, and metal-parts of the stall can still come to be constantly spotted, soiled or corroded. Replacing these stalls is costly and unnecessary. Here is how to forestall all of that.

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Avoid the problem.

This health can be avoided thoroughly by installing a conveyable wrap-around plastic-curtain liner within the stall to keep its walls and accessories sparkling clean all the time with itsybitsy or no added cleaning, even under heavy use by it occupants. It is time to say goodbye to a gritty, grimy, scummy, corroded stall, forever.

In general, first assemble and install a rectangular plastic frame within the stall at the shower-head height, and then hang shower curtains from it all the way around the inside of the stall. This frame stays in place by the pressure exerted from the flexible crutch tips used in production it, similar to the way an adjustable bathtub curtain rod stays in place, by tension. That is, the frame fits into the stall tightly. Once installed, the disposable and  washable curtain-liner takes all of the soiling abuse while the walls, doors, and faucets stay spotlessly clean. 

How to make the curtain-liner frame.

See the lists below for the parts list and directions for production the frame. Then setup it within the stall at a height just under the shower-head, and just behind the top frame of the stall's entry curtain or door, if one exists. That positioning will put the frame about 1-inch from the walls and 73-inches above the stall-floor.

At this point, hang 2-3 overlapping shower curtains from plastic hooks nearby the frame, letting the curtains overlap away from the shower head. Allow a part of the curtain-liner behind the entrance to slide open and shut for easy entry and exit. If no door exists, set the sliding portion over wherever the common entrance is.

The introductory cost to make this laborsaving gadget from scratch is about . However, it can be made for less than that with economical shopping and leftover parts from other projects.

Materials needed for a 29x48" stall.

two 10-foot rods of ¾-inch white Pvc plastic pipe; .50 each four ¾-inch white plastic-pipe T's; .50 each four ¾-inch light-colored rubber crutch tips; .50 each 36 shower-curtain hooks (plastic); box/12 three 72-inch tall household shower curtains; -10 each

Note: for the large rectangular stalls, two real twist-adjustable bathtub curtain rods with their plastic caps removed can be used in place of the two longer precut plastic-pipe rods, which saves on measuring and cutting these pipe-rods precisely. However, four one-inch washers might be needed to let the bare ends of these curtain rods fit into the T's correctly.

Still, an even faster shortcut is simply to setup a real bathtub curtain rod on each of the longer two sides of the stall. And then, run a piece of nylon rope or aluminum wire across the far ends of these two rods to unblemished the frame. For this rapid setup, nothing needs to be measured precisely.

Standard-sized shower stalls range from about 29-inches square to 48x30-inches rectangular or larger. Bathtub-shower combinations range from 60x29-inches to larger. Thus, before cutting the frame's two end-rods for the narrow sides of the stall with a fine-cut saw, part each distance separately, allowing space for the transversely attached T's on each end of each rod. See the directions below.

1. For thorough stall widths, cut two plastic-pipe end-rods to 25±1/4-inches in length, each, as measured. Scrape the rough ends smooth.

2. Insert the ends of these two rods into the side ports of the four plastic T's (no cement needed).

3. Insert a crutch tip into one end of each T on each rod, letting the tips face the same direction. The two end-rods  with the T-assemblies attached are now completed for the stall.

4. Carefully part the approximate distance of each of the two longer pipe rods separately for each side of the stall, allowing for the combined distance of the T's and crutch tips. The stalls are not all the time perfectly plumb and square. Thus, cut these rods slightly longer than the calculated estimation by about 1/4-inch each. Then, by trial-and-error fitting attempts, gradually cut these two rods to their strict lengths so the frame will hang by itself under the right number of  tension on each side. 

5. setup the curtain hooks onto the rod frame nearby all four walls.

6. Hang the curtains by overlapping them away from the shower spray or any potential splattering. Overlap them by 10 to 16-inches depending on the size of the stall and the width of the curtains. Allow the overlap on the sliding part at the entrance to be about 10-inches when closed. Tip: hang an extra unused hook at that 10-inch distance for the open-hole at the corner of that sliding curtain to be attached to.

The liner now covers the entire inner perimeter of the stall from the floor up to the top of the curtains. The bottoms of the curtains will barely touch the floor. If not, raise or lower the frame slightly by sliding it into a new position at each corner. The crutch tips will safe the walls from being scratched at each end of the stall.

To adjust the water flow while bathing or showering, manually adjust the faucets and other controls by letting the curtain wrap nearby them like thin hot-pads in one's hands. That is, to keep these parts clean and protected, holes for them need not be cut in the curtains.

Steam and mist from the hot water does not adversely affect the cleanliness of the stall walls and other accessories behind the curtains. It evaporates cleanly as it does from a bathroom mirror. Also, to forestall unnecessary buildup on the curtain-liner itself, use soft soaps, and minimize the force of the shower spray and its subsequent splattering. Additionally, the floor of the stall is self-cleaning most of the time from the swashing of the user's feet.

Summarized advantages of the frame and curtain-liner.

The stall's walls and metal/glass accessories stay clean and spotless all the time After a bath or shower, a squeegee or wipe-down rag is no longer needed The perimeter-shaped stall liner gives enough room to bathe or shower comfortably The liner curtains themselves are machine washable, or can easily be substituted as desired Coloful or designer curtains can be used if desired A shower rack can be hung from the shower-head pipe to hold soaps, shampoos, brushes etc The liner frame is removable, i.e., it is not constantly fixed to the walls with glue or screws The appearance of the frame and liner is neat and practical

Spotless Bath-Shower Stalls - An Easy Way to Keep Them That Way Without hereafter Cleaning

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How to Do a Glute Ham Raise Without engine

How to Do a Glute Ham Raise Without Machine

The glute ham raise is one of The best exercises for your hamstrings, glutes, and lower back, the muscles that are most responsible for helping you to run faster and jump higher.

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But what if you don't have the 0+ to spend on a specialized piece of equipment like the glute ham raise machine?

Don't worry, there are ways to improvise. But first..

Why Glute Ham Raises?

Take a look at a world class sprinter, whether it is someone like Usain Bolt or Shelly-Ann Fraser, and you will see some impressive glutes and hamstrings!

This is because the glutes and hamstrings are said to lead 40% and 25% (respectively) of the power for sprinting and jumping.

Your typical amateur athlete is "quad dominant," meaning that the glutes and hamstrings are under activated and dormant, forcing the less distinguished quads to do the bulk of the work in sprinting and jumping.

What's the result? Well, when you are not undoubtedly using 65% of your existing power, you can be pretty confident that you won't be running as fast or jumping as high as you could be, potentially.

The glute ham raise will initiate the glutes and hamstrings and gently progress them, enhancing your athletic carrying out and helping to preclude pulled hamstrings by strengthening these muscles.

I don't have passage to a Glute Ham Raise Machine. What are my options?

Option 1: Lat Pull Down Machine

If you have passage to a typical lat pull down machine, you are in luck. You basically have a glute ham raise motor at your disposal.

Simply sit with your knees on the seat, facing away from the machine. Hook your feet under the machine's knee pads. Now your feet and knees are braced, and you can achieve the glute ham raise, letting your body descend by straightening your legs, then returning to an upright position by forcefully contracting your glutes and hamstrings.

You should put some sort of keep (a bench or chair works well) at the same height as the lat pull down machine's seat. This will give you something to push off of with your arms at the bottom position of the exercise, should you need assistance.

Option 2: Partner Assisted Glute Ham Raise

If you have a friend to help, this is a pretty good option.

Set up a pad on the ground and kneel on it. Have your friend hold down your ankles.

Let your body descend, retention your hamstrings and glutes flexed to control your fall. Use your arms to help slow you down and support with your return to upright, but remember to keep flexing and activating your glutes and hamstrings, using them as much as possible.

Option 3: Using a Squat Rack

This option is similar to option 2, except you will be using a barbell in a squat rack or other object to hold your feet down.

Ideally, you want your knees and ankles to be the same distance from the ground.

Option 4: Use a Car!

This is a pretty cool Diy glute ham raise option. Get a nice solid pad for your knees, and hook your heels under your parked car!

Make sure your heels won't damage any trim pieces. I find that most cars are pretty favorable for this purpose near one of the four jacking points on the car's frame.

See for yourself. Some cars are too high, others are too low. If you only have passage to lowriders, sorry, but this option might not be the best for you!

Option 5: Build a Glute Ham Raise machine

There are any sets of plans for homemade glute ham raise machines out there on the internet. With of lumber, good tools, and an hour or so of time, you can have yourself a potential piece of equipment that will give you great results.

I did a Google hunt for "homemade hamstring training" and found some great ideas.

Here is one idea I found that seems pretty easy and effective:

Cut a piece of 3/4" thick plywood into a 4' x 2.5' piece (4' is the width of a thorough 4'x8' piece of plywood) Cut one 8' 2x4 into two 4' pieces With some longer deck screws, screw the two 2x4s, resting on their 2" sides, along the long edges of the 4' piece of plywood you just cut. (these will provide rigidity for the base) Cut someone else piece of 3/4" plywood, this time nearby 26" x 24" (it needs to fit in the middle of the 2x4 pieces, and be wide adequate for your feet) Create the upright supports for the foot piece: Cut a couple more 12-16" pieces of 2x4, screw them into the existing 4' 2x4 rails Find your desired angle for the foot rest, and mark the 2x4 uprights with this angle. Unscrew the 2x4 uprights and cut the angle as marked. Cut someone else piece of 2x4 at nearby 2.5'. This will be screwed into the newly cut 2x4 uprights and act as a keep for the foot rest. Screw the uprights back into place. Screw the 2x4 foot rest keep into the newly cut uprights, 4" side flat against the angles. Screw the plywood foot rest into the foot rest support. Add some padding for your knees, and... Get to Work!

So, now you know how to do a Glute Ham Raise without machine!

How to Do a Glute Ham Raise Without engine

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